Michigan has more coastline than any state except Alaska, which sounds like a made-up fact but is actually true thanks to our absurdly squiggly Great Lakes shores. With 11,000 inland lakes, 3,288 miles of Great Lakes coastline, and enough rivers to make your GPS cry, choosing where to paddle can feel overwhelming.
Let me save you from my mistakes. Like that time I showed up to Pictured Rocks with a pool floatie thinking "how different could it be?" Spoiler alert: very different. Or when I tried to impress a date by paddling Torch Lake in October without checking water temps first. Nothing says romance like mild hypothermia.
Where the Great Lakes pretend to be oceans
The Great Lakes aren't messing around, and neither should you when paddling them. These massive bodies of water create their own weather systems, generate legitimate waves, and maintain water temperatures that'll make you question your life choices.
Pictured Rocks will ruin other kayaking for you
I hate to start with the obvious choice, but Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore near Munising is popular for good reason. This 42-mile stretch along Lake Superior features 200-foot multicolored sandstone cliffs that look like someone went wild with a giant box of crayons. The water clarity reaches 45 feet, which means you can see exactly how far you'll sink if you tip over (kidding… mostly).
The cliffs aren't just pretty backdrops either. You'll paddle through sea caves like Rainbow Cave, under natural arches at Chapel Rock, and past seasonal waterfalls including Bridalveil Falls, which does exactly what it sounds like. The whole experience feels more like paddling through a fantasy novel than the Midwest.
Here's what nobody tells you about Pictured Rocks: the water temperature hovers between 40-55°F even in summer. That's "instant regret" cold. Also, conditions change faster than a teenager's mood. One minute you're floating in glass-calm water, the next you're wondering if your rental kayak has airbags (it doesn't).
Guided tours run about $99 for three hours or $150+ for longer trips. Pictured Rocks Kayaking offers something clever with their off-shore boat launches, which means you skip the sketchy beach launch and start your tour already at the good stuff. Smart move if you're not confident in your launch skills or just prefer keeping your dignity intact.
Sleeping Bear Dunes: where sand meets everything
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore gives you options, which is nice when your group can't agree on anything. The park stretches 35 miles along Lake Michigan with 400-foot sand dunes that look even more impressive from water level.
Most people don't realize the park includes two rivers perfect for different skill levels:
- Lower Platte River: 2-3 hour lazy float
- Crystal River: shallow enough for kids
- Lake Michigan: for people who like risk
- Both rivers: actually doable for normal humans
The Platte River is my go-to recommendation for families or anyone who thinks "portaging" is a type of French cooking. You launch from the M-22 bridge and float to Lake Michigan without any real effort required. Riverside Canoes charges $22 for two-hour rentals including shuttle service, which is basically the price of a mediocre lunch.
Pro tip: arrive before 11am or after 3pm unless you enjoy playing bumper boats with inner tubers. Also, Lake Michigan requires 16-19 foot sea kayaks with spray skirts. Don't be the person who shows up with an 8-foot recreational kayak. You'll either get turned away or become a cautionary tale.
Turnip Rock: Instagram's favorite limestone
Turnip Rock near Port Austin looks fake in photos, like someone photoshopped a tree onto a mushroom-shaped rock. It's real though, and only accessible by water, which keeps the crowds manageable and makes you feel slightly superior to land-bound tourists.
The 7-mile roundtrip paddle from Bird Creek County Park isn't technically difficult, but it's long enough that your shoulders will have opinions the next day. Lake Huron can get choppy here, so this isn't the place to test whether you remembered how to do a wet exit.
Port Austin Kayak rents boats for $45 per four hours, and yes, you'll need most of that time. They've also got PAK's Backyard Cafe & Beer Garden, which serves food that actually tastes good instead of just being "convenient." Revolutionary concept for a rental place.
The inland lakes that won't try to kill you
Michigan's inland lakes offer a gentler introduction to paddling, with warmer water and fewer waves trying to flip your boat. These interconnected systems let you paddle for miles without dealing with Lake Superior's mood swings.
The Inland Waterway: locks and lakes and sometimes both
The Inland Waterway sounds fancy because it has locks, but really it's just a 38-mile water highway connecting Crooked Lake to Lake Huron. The two operational locks make you feel like a legitimate boat captain, even if you're paddling a neon green rental kayak.
Burt Lake State Park makes a solid launch point with 2,000 feet of sandy shoreline and actual camping facilities that include flush toilets (luxury!). Marina Park in Indian River has dedicated kayak launches, which means you won't have to awkwardly shuffle past fishing boats while carrying your paddle like a jousting lance.
The system works for everyone from "I've never held a paddle" beginners to "I own four kayaks" experts. Calm lake sections give newbies confidence, while large lake crossings in wind provide enough excitement for people who think regular paddling is boring.
Torch Lake: Caribbean vibes, Michigan prices
Torch Lake gets compared to the Caribbean so often it probably has an identity crisis. The turquoise water comes from the lake being 300 feet deep, which is deep enough to hide a small skyscraper. It's Michigan's deepest inland lake and part of a 100+ mile chain connecting 12 lakes.
The famous Torch Lake sandbar is only accessible by boat, making it the perfect destination for people who like exclusivity without the yacht club fees. Summer water temps reach 60-75°F, which feels tropical compared to Lake Superior's ice bath temperatures.
With 84 public access sites, you're never far from a launch point. The Upper Chain offers launches every 3-4 miles, perfect for beginners who might need frequent reality checks. The Lower Chain challenges advanced paddlers with open water crossings that'll test whether you actually know how to read wind patterns or just pretend.
Au Sable River: not just for marathon runners
The Au Sable River stretches 138 miles from Grayling to Lake Huron, with six hydroelectric dams creating pond-like sections that won't punish beginners. Over 120 miles of mapped access means you can paddle for an hour or six days, depending on your commitment level and vacation time.
The river hosts the Au Sable Canoe Marathon each July, where people paddle through the night like caffeinated maniacs. You don't have to be that intense. Borchers Canoe & Kayak offers trips from 2.5 hours to multi-day wilderness experiences for those who think hotels are cheating.
Rivers that flow predictably (mostly)
Michigan's rivers offer something the Great Lakes can't: predictability. They flow in one direction, maintain relatively consistent depths, and rarely generate waves that make you question your life insurance coverage.
Pine River: legitimate whitewater in the Lower Peninsula
The Pine River holds 26 miles of National Wild and Scenic designation out of 67 navigable miles. Spring brings Class I-II rapids when water depth hits 2.0+ feet, which doesn't sound impressive until you're bouncing off rocks wondering why you didn't wear a helmet.
The US Forest Service requires a $2 permit for popular sections. You can reserve through Recreation.gov or call 231-745-4631 if you're old school. Two dollars seems almost insultingly cheap until you realize it's just to limit crowds, not fund anything fancy.
Manistee River: spring-fed and crystal clear
The Manistee River maintains consistent flow year-round thanks to numerous springs, making it reliable even when other rivers look like trickles. The prime 35-mile stretch from Hodenpyl Dam to Rainbow Bend passes through the Semi-Primitive Non-Motorized Area, which is bureaucrat-speak for "really pretty with no jet skis."
Manistee Adventures offers 18 different routes with kayak rentals from $40-60 including shuttle. Wildlife sightings are common… bald eagles, sandy swimming holes, and occasionally other paddlers who also thought they'd have the river to themselves.
The boring but important stuff
Let's talk regulations because nothing kills a paddle trip faster than getting fined or, worse, having to be rescued because you ignored basic safety rules.
What Michigan legally requires:
- USCG-approved PFDs for everyone
- Kids under 6 wear theirs constantly
- No registration for human-powered boats
- Michigan Recreation Passport for state launches
The Recreation Passport costs $14 annually for residents or $11 daily for visitors. Yes, it's annoying to pay for water access, but it's cheaper than one tank of gas and funds the parks, so stop complaining.
When water temperature matters more than air temperature
Here's what'll actually ruin your trip: cold water. Lake Superior stays 40-55°F in summer. Lake Huron manages 60-70°F. Spring inland waters hover around 45-60°F, while peak summer reaches a balmy 65-75°F.
The Coast Guard recommends wetsuits or drysuits below 70°F, which sounds paranoid until you fall in and suddenly understand why hypothermia kills people. I learned this lesson the expensive way with a $200 wetsuit purchase after one particularly memorable April dunking.
Check real-time water conditions before launching. River levels change, especially after rain. What was a gentle float yesterday might be a wild ride today.
Essential gear nobody talks about:
- Whistle attached to PFD
- Bilge pump (bailing with hands sucks)
- Spare paddle per group
- Dry bag for phone
- Sunscreen for weird spots
- Snacks that won't dissolve
- Duct tape for everything else
Great Lakes paddling requires 16-19 foot sea kayaks with spray skirts. Don't show up with your kid's kayak from Walmart. Check marine forecasts religiously and stay within swimming distance of shore, even if you think you're Michael Phelps.
Hidden spots worth finding
Beyond the Instagram-famous destinations, Michigan hides quieter paddling spots where you might actually find solitude.
The Les Cheneaux Islands near Hessel offer 36 islands of protected paddling with Government Island camping among ancient cedars. Sylvania Wilderness in the Ottawa National Forest requires portaging between pristine lakes where moose outnumber people.
Detroit's Eastside Canals provide urban paddling through Prohibition-era bootlegger routes. Riverside Kayak Connection runs historical tours past the Fisher Mansion, sharing Purple Gang stories that make you appreciate modern law enforcement.
The Jordan River flows 24.9 miles through Wild and Scenic designation into Lake Charlevoix. Spring wildflowers and world-class trout fishing make it worth dealing with occasional fallen trees and confused fly fishermen.
What it actually costs
Let's talk money because "affordable family activity" means different things to different people.
Single kayak rentals average $25-45 for four hours. Guided tours run $60-150 depending on duration and whether lunch is included. Multi-day rentals drop to $50-80 per day, making longer trips economically reasonable if you ignore the hotel costs.
Major outfitters like Paddling Michigan, Riverside Canoes, and Port Austin Kayak maintain decent equipment and actually know local conditions. Yes, you can find cheaper rentals on Craigslist, but explaining to your insurance company why you trusted "Brad's Bargain Boats" gets awkward.
Wildlife encounters and reality checks
You'll see wildlife, which sounds magical until a swan chases your kayak (they're mean) or a snapping turtle surfaces next to your paddle (they're meaner). Common sightings include bald eagles, river otters, and great blue herons who judge your paddling technique.
Upper Peninsula paddlers might spot moose or black bears. Maintain distance, especially during fall rutting season when moose get territorial about everything including water they don't own. Bears generally ignore kayakers unless you're dumb enough to bring bacon for lunch.
Peak fall colors hit in late September, creating reflection opportunities that'll max out your phone storage. Dawn paddles offer glass-like water and the smug satisfaction of being productive before noon.
Final reality check
Michigan offers world-class paddling, but respect the water. Conditions change quickly, especially on the Great Lakes where "calm morning" can become "rescue situation" by afternoon. Start with inland lakes if you're new. Build skills before tackling Pictured Rocks or offshore paddles.
Check conditions, wear your PFD even if it's unflattering, and remember that Instagram photos don't show the two hours of paddling into headwinds that came before the perfect sunset shot. Michigan's water trails offer something for everyone, from families seeking gentle floats to adrenaline junkies wanting legitimate challenges.
Just don't be like me and assume all water is the same. Pool floaties don't work in Lake Superior, October is too late for skinny dipping in Torch Lake, and yes, you really do need that permit for the Pine River. Learn from my mistakes, respect the water, and Michigan's 11,000 lakes and endless rivers will reward you with experiences worth bragging about… once you warm up.
